Crustaceans- a love/hate relationship. And a delicious recipe to share!

In culinary school, and I don't remember if this is what we were taught in biology, shellfish are split into three categories: Crustaceans, Mollusks, and Echinoderms. The Mollusk group is further divided into bivalves, univalves, and cephalopods. I like crustaceans, hate mollusks (with the exception of scallops), and have never tried an echinoderm. Chef says echinoderms are “slimy” and that it is a “texture thing”, which is a sure sign that I will hate them too. This simple delineation of my preferences will make this exam question a cinch… certainly they will ask us to name the three categories and provide an example of each.

At risk of going on ten more tangents, I will summarize my thoughts on crustaceans. Each bullet probably requires a full entry, but I don’t have time for that now and I am sure you don’t care to read all of that! Crustaceans include lobsters, crabs, prawns, langoustines, crayfish, and shrimp.

• I had my first lobster in Maine when I was 21. 
• Michael and his boys had a tradition of lobster every Sunday, so I cooked my first lobster at 22. 
• I have never been good at getting lobster out of it’s shell. I always make a huge mess. And I only like the claws, knuckles, and tail. 
• Correctional facilities in Maine used to serve lobsters to inmates, who claimed lobster every night was “cruel and unusual punishment.” What do you think about that?
• I hate crabs. I once went with a friend, during my senior year of college, to a China Buffet and consumed approximately 4 heaping plates of crab legs. Then I got sick in the Barnes and Noble bathroom. 
• I don’t know the difference between prawns and shrimp, still, though I should. 
• I had my first langoustine in the South of France at 23. Since that time I have noted that many restaurants serve you shrimp when you order langoustines – they put langoustine on the menu so they can charge you more. 
• Finally, after a 4th grade science project, I purchased a crayfish pet at the bait and tackle store. My sister had one too. We had them for a couple of years before we had to let them go in the creek on Rosendale Road. Lots of things got let go on Rosendale Road, including our cats……. 

On Wednesday evening I entered the kitchen with my note cards and tool kit as usual. I put my things down on a workspace across from Julia, front row center (ut oh), and went to read the evening’s schedule. It was almost illegible… I struggled to make out what the pre-dinner plans were, but one thing was clear as day: LOBSTER FOR DINNER! Wohoo!

Eventually, I figured it out:

1. Sauce Americaine 
2. Moules a la marinere – present at 7:15 
3. Court boullion for scallops 
4. Coquilles Saint-Jacques, coulis au persil (scallops) – present at 7:50 
5. Lobster – dinner at 8:30 

After dinner? Shellfish tasting party - Snails. Clams. Oysters. Yuck-o.

Let me cut to the chase. My partner and I kicked butt. Things are finally beginning to get easier! I know my way around the kitchen. Everything was done and presented on time.We had a full half hour for dinner. Life was good. 

Coquilles Saint-Jacques, coulis au persil

Coquilles Saint-Jacques, coulis au persil II

The scallops were absolutely delicious, but I recommend the scallops in the Sauce Americaine that we used for the lobster. I think that is how they served the scallops at a secret cafe in Hilton Head Island... I will not link to/ advertise it here, as they don't advertise at all (on purpose), but you can absolutely email me if you're heading South. 

I would recommend just about anything in the Sauce Americaine. Try it! 

Reheating Lobster in Sauce Americaine (recipe below)

Sauce Americaine
Crustacean Sauce with tomato, brandy, and tarragon (Recipe adapted from The International Culinary Center Classic Culinary Arts Level One text book)

Ingredients
18 oz lobster bodies (or as many as you can get your hands on)
1 T vegetable oil
3.5 oz carrots, cut in mirepoix
3.5 oz onions, cut in mirepoix
1.75 oz brandy (use a little bit extra, but make sure to cook it off)
4 oz white wine
1 qt fumet, then water to cover
7 oz tomatoes, canned (tomatoes and juice)
1 oz tomato paste
2 garlic cloves crushed
1 spring tarragon

For the Liaison and Herb Flavoring 1 oz butter
1 oz flour
1 t chervil, hacher
1 t tarragon, hacher
1 t parsley, hacher
Salt and Pepper
2 oz butter or cream, optional

Procedure
1. Cut the lobster bodies in half. Remove the gills and the sac in the head potion. Rinse the bodies under cold water, dry them, and chop them coarsely.
2. Heat a large sauté pan, add oil, add the lobster bodies, and cook over high heat until the turn orange and develop a deep, rich aroma.
3. Add the mirepoix (carrots and onions) and cook for about 3 minutes. Add the brandy and flamber. Add the white wine to deglaze the pan and reduce by half.
4. Add the fumet, tomatoes, tomato paste, garlic, tarragon, and water to cover. Bring to a simmer and cook gently for about 40 minutes, skimming frequently.
5. Strain. Place back on heat, and reduce until fully flavored. Thicken with the liaison (flour and butter – mix in a bowl first) and gently cook for 10 minutes. Be careful. The sauce will now burn if left over high heat.
6. Remove from heat. Add the chopped herbs. Season to taste. Here you can also add the butter or cream.
Note: If you add the butter, you will not be able to store and reuse this sauce as the butter will separate. This recipe makes quite a bit of sauce, so I recommend pouring off whatever you won’t use today and storing it in the refrigerator. Then add the butter or cream to the sauce for service. When you reheat the sauce later, bring it to a boil and then add butter or cream if desired. 

Plated Lobster in Sauce Americaine